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Its a good idea to thin the MW 20% or so for any coat. Glad you ve found something that works for you. Before I got into woodworking, I thought poly was poly, and Minwax was reputable stuff. Once I started using better finishes, I was amazed at the difference. Glad you've found something that works for you. The silver lining is this disaster has pushed me to find new products to use and indeed to find this forum.
For floor projects, use a square buff orbital or disk-type sander with 220-grit sandpaper or the equivalent grit pad or screen . Do not use a belt or drum-type sander for sanding between coats. Follow the sander manufacturer’s directions for your type of project. I have given away the balance of the minwax high build and moved to arm r seal. After reading a review by a poor guy who coated all the floors in his house, I feel better.
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That stuff takes forever to cure and the oil was likely not completely catalyzed. That will inhibit the dryers in the poly top coat. Since this is a table top and will be subject to use, I would strip it down and re-finish. Thanks Ed, I think I will try wiping the minwax fast dry on a scrap and see how it goes. Sounds like you have a coat built up already, and you don't need much build.
The table was in my air conditioned kitchen and to my shock it was not dry the following day. After 9 days it seemed dry and we had friends over to dinner. On cleaning up I say the impression of our plates on the finish through a cloth place mat. I called minwax, who suggested letting it dry and wiping down with thinner to accelerate the drying. I have let the table be for 4 months, but am wondering how do I go about repairing the finish?
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All of these can effect the way polyurethane drys/cures. I need a coach ….refinish oak table top.i like the high build look. I cringe at the thought of a complete strip of a walnut veneer table top. Sand to obtain a smooth, uniform surface. Pre-pay for multiple images and download on demand. See what’s possible, and then make it happen.
Putting thinner on it does nothing to speed that process up, though it probably didn't slow it down any either. The thinner would simply evaporate and the varnish keeps curing. Adding a bit of air movement, and maybe some warmth would both speed up the reaction.
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Well I hope I can get some help with this. I bought some minwax high build polyurethane varnish hoping I could put 1 or 2 coats on a table and be done. I put on 1 coat and found I easy though almost immediately i had brush drag when I tried to smooth out brush marks.
I'm not sure what you mean by "oiled a month before", but I'm doubtful it caused the problem. Regardless of what you try, I wish you the best. I had a similar experience with Minwax High-Build, and I didn't use any oil. I applied a sealcoat of 1LB dewaxed shellac, which was sanded back when dry. About a week later I put on 2-3 coats of the Minwax, it seemed to go fine.
If you sand it smooth and do a couple real thin wiping coats, you may be in business. Only caveat here is I'm not sure how thinned the "Fast Dry" mixture really is. Fred, I have to disagree with your comment on the oil. If Minwax was applied over dry walnut, there is no reason for it not to cure. Since the OP did not specify the type of oil, I would guess it had some effect on the driers of the Poly finish. Minwax® 350 VOC Helmsman® Spar Urethane is specifically formulated to protect wood against nature’s toughest conditions.
I've used a lot of BLO, and the most I ever waited for it to dry was one week when being top coated with waterbornes. I've never had a problem with anything not curing on top of it once the BLO itself had cured enough. With most other finishes I only wait one day, with shellac even less . Now, the OP said the table was oiled a month before he topcoated; I would bet the month's SS check that if it was BLO it didn't impact the curing of the varnish. I didn't say in my original replay, but I was thinking along the lines ofwhat Justjoe said about Minwax.
He could not recoat or walk on them for a week. I am going to try a little light sanding/scraping to see if I can smooth the ridges and recoat with minwax fast dry for 2 reasons. There will always be differences of opinion on forums like this.
Can I just sand out the marks and recoat? It is walnut and had been oiled a month before I applied varnish. Minwax said light sand and a coat of their fast dry, but I am leery of their products now. Protect your interior wood projects and keep them looking beautiful when using Minwax Polyurethane Wood Finish.
I consider them the Harbor Freight of the finishing world (I hope that isn't too insulting to HF). When used on hardwood floors, use a lambswool or synthetic pad applicator, or a natural bristle brush and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. For maximum durability, we recommend 3 coats.
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